Local trains russian girls in India...

When we, weak & beautiful, need it the most :)I still can not believe it...
When going to country and accepting all of it, all rules and traditions, the country starts to help you wherever you are via its people...

Taking a train from Rishikesh to New Delhi - total time of the journey - 7 hours, with a quick layover in Haridwar during Kumbh Mela...

That's what I didn't account for - Kumbh Mela... With Indian population of 1,147,995,904(5,6,7... :), we met about 1,111,111,111 at Kumb Mela...


Local train from Rishikesh - one of the most relaxing places on earth - left on time, with my trainmates - around 12 of them friendly smiling and none speaking English making space for more people at every stop. You know how many people can fit into 1 train car in India? Right, noone can count... With fans being installed at the ceiling for decorations, you inhale deeply, and try to think, what an adventure... Some people take this trian daily...

We arrive at Haridwar 30 minutes after train for New Delhi leaves... I am momentary surrounded with helpful Police Men, who speak relatively good english. They point me to the reservation office, sweetly explaining I can forget about a previous ticket and need to get a new one. Me, inside of the crowed, with biggest suitcases that place has ever seen, make my way to station managers' office. There I sweetly ask if I can be granted a free ticket for the next train as soon as possible. A few men sitting around the table with important faces sweetly say no, and point me to the same reservation office...

Window #1 - a crowed of screaming (kind of in a family way) men surrounds the window with a tail from other men waiting... No women in sight... I remember Manoj's trick about women line, and try to make my way to the window to use the 'women respect' card... In a second I am told that no such priviledge for women exists during Kumb Mela... When we, weak & beautiful, need it the most!

ok, back to the tail of the tail... In 10 minutes no movement... I respectfully inquire how the line is supposed to move... The guy who was on my train, who looks like he follows some spiritual traditions, says it's a relaxed process to get things done... OK.

Magically, in 10 more minutes I am by the window, the relaxed process works, but the window turns out to be informational & I am directed to another window - i.e. line... Ok, 20 more minutes of magic, I seem to be the only westerner in the building, so everyone who knows English in our line is now talking to me. One guy fills blanks for me, another gives me train's #... Ok, I can live like this... In 20 minutes I am told I need to buy a ticket ASAP, that means not this line but informational window. WHAT???? I am telling I am not standing any more lines, and, magically again, I am led to informational window without waiting...

Oh, gasp of relief... Untill the clerk guy tells me the next train is sold out... and the next train too... I should understand it's Kumb Mela... My best option - may be come back in a few days... Or come back in 5 hours to inquire about the night train. Can I buy a ticket for the night train now? Nope :)

I am picturing my plane flying to NY without me... ready to cry... seems like a good option but also available to me any time... So I leave it for later... may be marry an Indian guy and stay in India now? The absence of tickets seems like a sign now... That thought pacifies me a lot... Calling my friend? No, that would be back to crying... Okkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk...

Going to manager's office. Tell them there are no tickets and I would still like to make it to Delhi. What they think? They send a guy with me - on his face I see a nice personality, and in this case it's a bad sign... We go to the back of the windows, where same clerks who just told me there are no tickets are having masala tea. Enjoying... And smile at us and say - no tickets, what else can we tell you guys?

We go back to the office... 20 minutes till the train... ok, my options... crying... calling... marrying... taking a bus... then donating all my clothes right here as the suitcase it too big... promising myself to travel light...
Idea - I board the train without the ticket and then pay the fine... The downside would be a sightseeing trip to jail or being stuck in some station I never heard of between here and New Delhi... Best option!

I ask the managers what else they recommend? They take a vow of silence... I ask to use their phone... It's for calls inside of the station (of course...) To masala drinking clerks? ok, tell myself to remember of accepting all people & understanding all behaviours... aah, theory is nice...

Suddenly there is some winking going on, one of the guys who I didn't notice before takes off his uniform jacket... and he takes me through the back door... Either they r tired of me and know how to get rid of Foreigners without evidence or ... We go to some yard with local ticket offices, back door, of course... a clerk prints me fake, cheap 300 rp (around $7 ticket)... When I suddenly rememebr about bribing it's not accepted, apparently I am a guest and it's an honor...

In 15 minutes I am on a train, in an air conditioned car, they will feed us 6 times starting now, I will be in New Delhi... I might even meet my friend... It all starts to look so magical and unreal again... I am in sweet shock for next 6 hours, my ticket is fake (no seat), so I get fined by conductor (another 200 rp - $4) who initailly wants 1000 more but hearing I am an American (yes, my accent is from NY and till he shows me anything in print that says 1000 rp fine I am not paying it) he changes his mind... Even gives me change from his pocket money...

I will always be puzzled by India, a country that is like one big family, that has so many rules, that knows how to break them all and still follows rules as a tradition...




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